• Ruth

Mudroom Makeover on a Budget



The mudroom transformation really evolved over the few weeks that I was thinking about it and planning the details of the design. I was originally planning on adding design details on one wall of the room and just painting the other walls. My ideas kept growing and growing until it enveloped the entire mudroom. It's not that big of a space but it still created a lot more work for this project.



INITIAL PLAN

My original idea was to just extend the white board and batten across the wall it was already on and install some sort of wall treatment (brick or shiplap) above that area with a shelf and covering the bench with plywood. I actually repainted this whole space the same grey as in the kitchen because that was my intention, to just do the brick above the bench.

The more I thought about the brick, the more of it I wanted. If I do more than just above the board and batten, then I should do it everywhere. Go big or go home!


SUPPLIES:


- 1x4 primed pine boards

- 1x6 primed pine board

- 1/8" plywood

- 1/4" plywood

- 1x6 poplar board

- Construction Adhesive

- 2"-2.5" Brad Nails

- Wood filler

- White trim paint

- Black chalk board paint

- Caulk

- Trim roller

- Circular saw

- Brad Nailer

- Coat hooks

- Motion sensing light switch

- Can light conversion kit

- Pendant light

(Faux Brick and German Schmear supplies listed HERE.)



FAUX BRICKS WITH GERMAN SCHMEAR

The faux brick walls were the biggest undertaking of this project. They sell the faux brick panels in large sheets so its easy to cut to size and add to the wall. Just incase you missed it, check out the details of how I created this wall here: DIY FAUX BRICK GERMAN SCHMEAR. I go over the details that make the walls look seamless and perfect!



RECREATING THE BOARD AND BATTEN


The existing mudroom area had board and batten, and a bench but it just felt cut off, boring and small. To recreate the board and batten the rest of the way across the wall, I used the same sized boards (after examining how they created the current trim) to replicate the design across the remainder of the wall. That was the best part, that I didn't have to remove the trim to refresh and redo this room, I just had to add to it. I sanded down the previous trim so I could wood fill, sand and repaint the trim as a whole. Below is a diagram of how the top of the board and batten was created and what I used to recreate it.



For the rest of the wall, I used 1/8" plywood as the backing to create a smooth look and surface then used 1x4 boards for the middle and outer vertical pieces continuing the pattern. Once all of the board and batten pieces were in place, I filled in all of the nail holes with wood filler.

Check out my post about the board and batten above my fireplace for a detailed look into how you can create a board and batten wall.





WOOD SHELF


Another thing I did to take this space to the next level was to add a beautiful wood shelf that was just a bit wider than the top trim piece. So, since the top trim piece was a 1x4, I used a 1x6 poplar board so it would show just a little bit more. I wanted to be sure that the shelf didn't overwhelm the space or create a big shadow. This size was perfect for my space.


Poplar is an inexpensive hardwood that I decided to use to fancy it up instead of using common pine. You can use which ever wood species fits your style best here.


I first cut the shelf to size and then stained it. I used a popular stain combination on my piece of poplar wood: Early American and then Weathered Oak on top. For a beautiful light color, you put the stain on and wipe off right away. Wax on wax off!


Once the trim and bricks were both complete, the shelf was the last thing to go in. From the beginning of the project, I marked and kept track of where the studs were. This came in handy when I was putting up the shelf because, although there isn't anything heavy going up here, I definitely don't want it to ever fall on anyones head. On the top, backside of the shelf, I drilled pocket holes, one at each stud location. I didn't worry about filling these holes because no one will ever see them unless they're looking for them.



WOOD BENCH FASCIA


Again, there was already a bench here but I didn't like the all-white because it got so dirty and just looked bad. I wanted to create a butcher block look for a thick wood bench seat without ripping out what was currently there or putting one on top of it.


Creating this wood bench fascia was very simple. I cut down a piece of 1/4" plywood to the dimensions of the bench seat (plus I added 1/4" to the depth of the seat so the front piece will be covered. That covers the top of the bench, now I cut another strip of 1/4" plywood to the width of the bench seat and the height of the front of the bench (from the top to the opening of the cubbies). I used the same stain method here as I used on the shelf.


To attach the plywood to the bench, I spread construction adhesive all over the underside and stuck it directly to the bench, finall