• Ruth

IKEA HACK Workbench Plans

I spent about two weeks creating this amazing workbench from IKEA cabinet bases and customizing it to be an incredible miter saw workbench for cutting and other projects.

I have created these rough plans for anyone to be able to create this workbench in their own space too! The biggest customization is going to be the depth. I created mine to be extra deep because of our miter saw being enormous. We made our counters 32" deep and the butcher block we purchased for the countertops was 25" deep so we glued an extra 7" of butcher block on the end so it is big enough to accommodate the miter saw. (More to come on the miter saw functionality and customization soon!)

I was originally planning on doing the 3-drawer chests for this workbench and building a base for these all to sit on but the more I calculated and figured out what I wanted, I realized, the 4-drawer option would be best. Of course they don't have a 4 drawer option so I decided to make it into 4 drawers. It actually is a hack in itself if you just want an extra drawer for free because buying two of the 2-drawer chests is the exact same price as if you bought the 3-drawer chest. Plus, I figured out how to easily attach the two drawer sections together (keep reading).

Assemble the chests and once you do, there should be an entire bag of hardware that is unused for the top and bottom that they sell separately (for more than the actual chest itself!)

Before stacking the 2-drawer chests, you will want to finish the bottom to make it easier to tip over and back up. I laid out my base layer of chests (2-3-2-2) and screwed the side together with counter sinking screws (it's important that they don't stick out). I then laid the frame on it's face and attached 1x3's to the bottom to raise it up just enough so the drawers don't drag the floor. I used an 8' board and had to cut down another piece to make it all the way to the end. The outer perimeter is really the most important for not having any gaps so it looks like a custom finished piece but in the center where the sides of the cabinets meet, the 1x3 doesn't have to fit perfectly, some gaps are fine.

I pulled out all of the extra hardware pieces that look like the below picture. These will allow you to stack the 2 drawer chests on top of one another. The metal bars will sit inside the larger of the holes and the wood pegs will wedge half way into the smaller of the holes. Then you will line up the two chests, pop in that metal screw type lock and BAM, they're one piece now.

The layout of the workbench is my personal preference based on how I cut wood. The miter saw will sit on the 3-drawer chest and the rest of the workbench has the 4-drawers. The addition to the 3-drawer chest that you'll see below is to cover the top while also raising the base for the miter saw so that we end up with the miter saw being flush with the counter tops to either side. I built this out of scrap MDF and plywood. It's such a small area that I'm sure a lot of you have scraps you can repurpose for something like this.

To get the correct measurement, I attached the MDF as the top of the chest and then measured the height of the saw and measured to the top of the unfinished cabinets (assuming you're using the same counter tops throughout.

Everything for this special pocket can be glued in place with construction adhesive or wood glue but I used construction adhesive. To give this riser a finished look, I covered the hole face with iron-on edge banding. Before attaching the top, I caulked, primed and painted all of the raw wood/MDF.

Since our workbench sits away from the wall, I attached 2x3s to the wall just below where the butcher block will hit so that it has something to rest on.

Finally, I have some L-brackets that connected the butcher block to the top of the cabinets as well as to the wall so the workbench won't be going anywhere!


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